Research suggests that the global pigmentation disorders treatment market is expected to generate approximately 8,479.08 million by the end of 2024, growing at a CAGR of around 7.02% between now and 2024. Reasons for this growth include increased spending on personal care products and a growing prevalence of skin disorders — many of which are due to global warming. Additional reasons for the worldwide market boost include high disposable income, increasing adoption of smoking in young adults, and growing demand from millennials.
Whether you’re dealing with hyperpigmentation on lips, periorbital hyperpigmentation, post-acne hyperpigmentation, or anything else in between, there are several different treatment methods (we’ll get to those in a bit.) However, vitamin C — especially when incorporated in a stabilized serum — can be an easy yet effective arsenal because it interrupts the critical steps of melanogenesis.
Vitamin C interacts with copper ions at the tyrosinase-active site and inhibits the action of the enzyme tyrosinase, which decreases melanin formation. C is an unstable compound, so it is often combined with other depigmenting agents such as soy or licorice for a more effective result.
Let’s take a closer look at what causes hyperpigmentation and what you can do to get rid of it, including using one of the best vitamin C serums on the market.
The List
BEST OVERALL
Carrot & Stick The Defense Serum, $60
SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic With 15% L-Ascorbic Acid, $166
The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% in Vitamin F, $17.80
RoC Multi-Correxion Revive + Glow Daily Serum, $32.99
L’Oreal Paris Revitalift Derm Intensives Vitamin C Concentrate, $29.99
Dr. Dennis Gross C + Collagen Brighten and Firm Vitamin C Serum, $80
OLEHENRIKSEN Banana Bright Vitamin C Serum, $65
Clinique Smart Custom-Repair Serum, $62
Drunk Elephant C-Firma Day Serum, $80
Lancôme Advanced Génifique Youth Activating Serum, $78.75
Glow Recipe Pineapple-C Brightening Serum, $49
Mario Badescu Vitamin C Serum, $45
Tatcha Violet-C Brightening Serum 20% Vitamin C + 10% AHAs, $88
Murad Vitamin C Glycolic Brightening Serum, $80
Kate Somerville +Retinol Vitamin C Serum, $98
Peter Thomas Roth Potent-C Power Serum, $98
Urban Skin Rx, Super C Brightening Serum, $58
CeraVe Skin Renewing Vitamin C Serum, $15.69
LilyAna Naturals Super C Serum, $28
BL+ The Serum, $180
La Roche Posay 10% Vitamin C Serum, $39.99
Glow Skin Beauty Daily Power C+, $130
Hyper Clear Brightening Clearing Vitamin C Serum, $36
What is Hyperpigmentation?
Hyperpigmentation is a common, typically harmless condition that surfaces when patches of skin become darker in color than the normal surrounding skin. This darkening occurs when an excess of melanin, the pigment that produces normal skin color, forms concentrated deposits in the skin. Your skin color depends on the amount of skin pigment, melanin — a protein produced by a specific type of skin cells called melanocytes.
Your skin is constantly changing. New skin cells are produced in the lower layers of the epidermis and gradually migrate upwards towards the skin surface, where they eventually die and are sloughed off. Melanocytes are located in the deeper layers of the epidermis. The melanocytes in those with darker colored skin produce more melanin than white-skinned people. Since melanin production is stoked by sun exposure and radiation, individuals with darker skin are better protected from the sun than those with a fair complexion. However, hyperpigmentation is more common in people with colored skin.
What Causes Hyperpigmentation?
The most significant causes of hyperpigmentation are sun exposure and inflammation, as both can increase melanin production. The greater your exposure to the sun, the greater your risk of increased skin pigmentation. Additional risk factors include:
- Pregnancy
- Oral contraception
- Chemical or physical injury
- Tobacco smoking
- Inflammatory diseases (allergies, asthma, hepatitis, autoimmune disorders, actinic lichen planus, etc.)
- Obesity
- Hormonal fluctuations
- Darker skin tone
- Chronological (intrinsic) aging
- Ethnicities with darker skin
- Prolonged exposure to cosmetic or other topical products
- Exposure to moderate heat or infrared radiation
- Certain drugs, including those used during chemotherapy
- Insulin resistance
- Certain medical conditions such as Addison’s disease, diabetic dermopathy, and hyperthyroidism
Types of Hyperpigmentation
The three most common forms of hyperpigmentation include melasma, sunspots, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
- Melasma: Many people compare melasma VS hyperpigmentation, but the reality is, they are one and the same. Melasma is believed to be caused by hormonal changes which spark an overproduction of melanin, resulting in a condition known as “the mask of pregnancy.” However, this form of hyperpigmentation can appear on the abdomen or other areas of the skin.
- Sunspots: Also referred to as liver spots or solar lentigines, sunspots are a common form of hyperpigmentation. They’re caused by excessive sun exposure over time and appear where the skin is exposed to the sun, such as the face, décolleté, and hands.
- Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation: PIH results from injury or inflammation to the skin — like acne, for example.
How to Prevent Hyperpigmentation
The best way to prevent the onset of hyperpigmentation (and aging skin) is sun protection. This means wearing an SPF of 30 or higher each day — even when it’s cloudy outside — and reapplying it every two hours and after swimming or excessive sweating. The American Academy of Dermatology reports that, even on cloudy days, up to 80 percent of the sun’s harmful ultraviolet rays can penetrate the skin.
If you’re wearing makeup, opt for mineral powders, sprays, or foundation to make the reapplication process easier. To help keep you on top of your game here’s some food for thought: A single day of excessive sun exposure can undo months of treatment.
Remember, no sunscreen can completely protect your skin, so the best way to avoid the sun is to stay out of it — especially between the hours of 10 a.m. and 4 p.m., when the sun’s rays are the strongest. Sunbeds are also off-limits if you want to prevent hyperpigmentation along with premature aging and a risk of skin cancer.
Best Treatment for Hyperpigmentation
If you’re wondering how to get rid of hyperpigmentation, keep in mind that these dark spots don’t always fade. Even with a dedicated hyperpigmentation treatment, some discoloration will be permanent. On average, it can take anywhere between 3 to 24 months to see an improvement, depending on the severity and size of the dark patches. Before we get into the best vitamin C serum to combat hyperpigmentation, here are some other standard treatment methods.
Related: Best Vitamin C Serums
Over-the-Counter Lightening Creams
OTC lightening creams are formulated with specific ingredients to help decrease pigmentation when applied religiously once or twice a day. Standard components include hydroquinone, niacinamide, licorice extract, and N-acetylglucosamine. Many topical creams or gels are also available in prescription strength, but you’ll need to be diagnosed with hyperpigmentation by a dermatologist first.
Related: Best Skin Whitening Lightening Creams
Retinoids
Derived from vitamin A, retinoids are among the most popular and effective OTC skincare ingredients on the market. Their small molecular structure allows them to penetrate deep into the skin and treat the layers below your epidermis. They’re often used in formulations that target fine lines, wrinkles, uneven skin tone, texture, and hyperpigmentation. If you do not see any results from OTC retinoids, there are more potent prescription-strength formulas available with a dermatologist’s prescription.
Related: Retinol vs. Retinoid
At-Home Face Peels
At-home face peels are not as strong as the professional variety administered by a doctor or medical esthetician, but they can still be effective when performed regularly. Peels work by exfoliating the top layer of skin, making it easier for new, healthy skin cells to emerge. The result is a more even and smoother appearance.
Prevalent face acids that can be found in OTC, at-home face peels include:
- Alpha hydroxy acids (glycolic, lactic, malic, tartaric, citric)
- Kojic acid
- Salicylic acid
- Azelaic acid
- Vitamin C (the l-ascorbic acid form)
Related: Best at Home Chemical Peels
Non-Prescription In-Office Chemical Peels
A chemical peel for hyperpigmentation uses acids at more substantial concentrations than at-home peels to treat the desired skin area at a deeper layer. They reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation by removing the epidermis. Yet, some more profound formulations can also penetrate the dermis (the middle layer of the skin) to treat more stubborn discoloration. In-office peels often provide faster results. However, they also post a greater risk of side effects. Speak to a dermatologist to determine whether or not an in-office peel is right for you.
Laser Resurfacing
Laser resurfacing is a non-invasive treatment that uses lasers to remove layers of your skin. Depending on the severity of your hyperpigmentation, either an ablative or non-ablative laser tool will be used. Ablative only removes the top layer of skin, so your dark patches would have to be less pronounced.
Non-ablative lasers, on the other hand, also remove those top layers but also heat up the dermis (underlying skin tissue) so that the body produces new collagen. As the treated area of the epidermis (outer layer) of skin heals and regenerates, the skin appears smoother, tighter, more toned, and more even in color.
While results can be favorable, you’ll need to repeat the laser for hyperpigmentation every few months. Keep in mind that there’s also a risk of additional hyperpigmentation and scarring.
Intense Pulse Light Therapy (IPL)
IPL therapy (otherwise known as a photofacial) is a non-ablative (fractional) laser treatment that stimulates collagen growth within the dermis. IPL is used for general pigmentation issues, but flat spots especially respond to this treatment after multiple sessions.
Best Serum for Hyperpigmentation: Vitamin C is Key
To understand how vitamin C works against hyperpigmentation, you first have to have a grasp of what free radicals are and how they adversely affect the skin. Despite being natural molecules, free radicals can contribute to aging (including hyperpigmentation) and illness in high numbers. Antioxidants such as vitamin C help neutralize free radicals, which combat these adverse effects.
One of the best products for hyperpigmentation is a vitamin C serum. This potent antioxidant interferes with the production of pigment in the skin, fading signs of hyperpigmentation. Once you add a vitamin C serum to your skincare regimen, you may start seeing noticeable improvements in approximately one month, more so over time.
Worn underneath a moisturizer, serums deliver high concentrations of various active ingredients deep into the skin. They are formulated with molecules that can penetrate deeper than creams that only work on the surface level. When treating hyperpigmentation, look for a serum formulated with magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP), the most stable and preferred ascorbyl ester. Other desirable forms include L-ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.
Additional considerations when purchasing a vitamin C serum for hyperpigmentation include:
- How the vitamin C serum is packaged. While traditionally, dark glass bottles were the preferred material, companies have made many packaging innovations to keep the C stable. When C is exposed to light, the product turns yellow — you don’t want this to happen because it may darken your skin instead of helping with any hyperpigmentation issues. Always store your vitamin C serum in a cool, dark place.
- Next, you’re going to want to choose the suitable vitamin C serum for your skin type. For example, If you have dry, mature skin, look for more moisturizing serums containing lipid-soluble forms of vitamin C, like ascorbyl palmitate and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. If you’re on the oilier side, a serum with L-ascorbic acid and sodium ascorbyl phosphate is better because these ingredients are water-soluble, which means they are lighter and better suited for an oily skin type.
- Lastly, keep an eye out for the serum’s concentration level in vitamin C to ensure its effectiveness. Most experts agree that a level between 10 and 20% is the sweet spot — 8% is too low, whereas going over 20% could cause irritation and isn’t any more effective.
Best Vitamin C Serum for Hyperpigmentation
FULL LIST
Carrot & Stick The Defense Serum, $60
This antioxidant-packed revitalizing serum helps promote collagen production and visibly brighten skin. Three distinct vitamin C derivatives work together to fight visible free radical damage and enhance cellular longevity. Regular use helps transform dull, uneven-looking skin with dark spots into the clear complexion you had in your youth.
Related: Best Niacinamide Serums
SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic With 15% L-Ascorbic Acid, $166
The best vitamin C serum recommended by a dermatologist (or shall we say dermatologists) has won copious awards, features patented ingredients and continues to be a consumer favorite all over the world. While the medicinal smell puts some off, it dissipates almost instantaneously and what that scent is telling you is that you’re applying pure vitamin C (15%), vitamin E (1%), and ferulic acid (.5%) that’s working hard to neutralize free radicals and gradually fade the signs of hyperpigmentation in just 4-5 drops each morning.
The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% in Vitamin F, $17.80
There are numerous articles on whether or not products from The Ordinary are “worth the hype,” but truth be told; this is one of the best affordable vitamin C serums for those who are tightening their purse strings yet are looking for results. It’s formulated with ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (known to have skin brightening benefits) and a stable, oil-soluble derivative of Vitamin C that can be used in higher concentrations without irritation.
RoC Multi-Correxion Revive + Glow Daily Serum, $32.99
This popular drugstore brand RoC claims that their formula brightens and tightens better than the best C serums in the luxury skincare market. Clinical tests show that this lightweight serum delivers a brighter, tighter, and more even skin tone with fewer dark spots in just four weeks, thanks to a 10% active vitamin C blend.
L’Oreal Paris Revitalift Derm Intensives Vitamin C Concentrate, $29.99
A 10 percent concentration of ascorbic acid works to visibly improve fine lines, wrinkles, dullness, and discoloration. While it’s a bit on the creamier side compared to other serums, the addition of light-weight hyaluronic acid provides hydration without the heaviness.
Dr. Dennis Gross C + Collagen Brighten and Firm Vitamin C Serum, $80
While technically, vitamin C is vital for collagen synthesis, this serum takes it to another level with the addition of collagen amino acids. There are also lactic and mandelic acids to dissolve dead skin cells. A proprietary Energy Complex (CoQ10, superoxide dismutase, carnitine, and niacinamide) boosts radiance, improves firmness, and diminishes the appearance of hyperpigmentation spots over time.
OLEHENRIKSEN Banana Bright Vitamin C Serum, $65
The brand’s cult-favorite Banana Bright Eye Cream pairs perfectly with this supercharged serum that, along with hyaluronic acid for hydration, contains 15% vitamin C to brighten and gradually fade areas of hyperpigmentation. Vitamin E nourishes while exfoliating polyhydroxy acids promote a more even and revitalized skin tone.
Related: Best Hyaluronic Acid Serums
Clinique Smart Custom-Repair Serum, $62
This high-tech serum adjusts to suit the needs of anyone who wears it. It targets, treats, and prevents specific skin issues, including loss of elasticity, fine lines, wrinkles, dryness, dullness, breakouts, and hyperpigmentation. The secret sauce is a blend of brightening botanicals, vitamin C, peptides, and salicylic acid.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma Day Serum, $80
Here’s the fascinating thing about this serum: It has what Drunk Elephant calls a “reservoir effect,” which means the product stays active on the skin for up to 72 hours — even if you’ve washed your face or rubbed your skin. It’s desirable for sensitive skin because it has a pH of 3.3 and is void of essential oils, silicones, and fragrance. What it does contain is a powerful blend of l-ascorbic and ferulic acids to promote a brighter, firmer, and more
even-looking complexion, fading dark patches with regular use. The addition of sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer (a modified form of hyaluronic acid) provides a serious moisture boost while pumpkin ferment extract gently sweeps away dead skin cells.
Lancôme Advanced Génifique Youth Activating Serum, $78.75
This serum is one of the brand’s best-selling products — and with good reason. It’s formulated with Bifidus prebiotic, vitamin Cg, and hyaluronic acid to visibly smooth, hydrate, even out skin texture. Used morning and night, it helps strengthen the skin’s moisture barrier to defend against environmental aggressors. Skin is hydrated, visibly softer, and smoother. The skin’s radiance improves in just one week, and fine lines, wrinkles, and dark spots are reduced after one bottle.
Glow Recipe Pineapple-C Brightening Serum, $49
Don’t be fooled by the cheeky packaging. While all skin types can benefit from this vitamin C serum, according to Glow Recipe, it’s great for those with oily skin. The formula is lightweight and contains natural alpha-hydroxy acids and bromelain enzymes from pineapple to gently exfoliate the dead skin cells that stick to oily skin and cause breakouts and a dull complexion. Props for containing three potent forms of vitamin C (22% Pineapple Juice, pure Ascorbic acid, and stable 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic acid) to combat acne scars and hyperpigmentation. Skin-soothing aloe and chamomile ensure that the skin gets that from within looking glow minus any irritation.
Mario Badescu Vitamin C Serum, $45
This skin-perfecting serum retexturizes and smooths and reveals a visibly brighter, more radiant complexion. It contains three forms of vitamin C — ascorbic acid, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid — for enhanced stability. Vitamin C brightens uneven skin tone and fades dark spots while diminishing the look of fine lines. Sodium hyaluronate and collagen combine to moisturize and smooth, resulting in skin that appears luminous and glowing.
Tatcha Violet-C Brightening Serum 20% Vitamin C + 10% AHAs, $88
The bottle may be beautiful, but it’s what’s inside that counts. Suitable for all skin types, this lightweight serum combines 20% vitamin C, alpha hydroxy acid, lactic acid, and mild fruit acids to increase cell turnover and gently exfoliate the skin. The addition of Japanese beautyberry helps boost the effectiveness of vitamin C while helping to stabilize the formula. At the same time, angelica root brightens and assists in the fading of hyperpigmentation and scarring.
Murad Vitamin C Glycolic Brightening Serum, $80
This unique serum harnesses the power of gold-stabilized vitamin c and glycolic acid to provide optimal brightening results — 83% of users noticed a difference in four weeks. Vitamin C also helps with uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation while the glycolic acid increases cell turnover rate removes dead skin cells, and promotes a smooth and radiant complexion. This formula has no fragrances or artificial colors, so it’s suitable for all skin types.
Kate Somerville +Retinol Vitamin C Serum, $98
It’s not too often that you see a serum incorporating retinol and vitamin C because they thrive in two different pH environments. However, Kate Somerville has managed to formulate a serum that harnesses both of these power-packed ingredients. It works while you sleep to brighten, tone, and revive a dull, uneven skin tone plagued by hyperpigmentation. Clinical studies indicate that after one week, 90% of users said their skin tone looked brighter.
Related: Best Retinol Serum
Peter Thomas Roth Potent-C Power Serum, $98
This power-packed serum contains THD ascorbate, an ultra-stable scientific breakthrough ingredient 50 times more potent than traditional Vitamin C, so it visibly reduces the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation. The formula is intensified with the addition of 3% vitamin E and 2% ferulic acid, two incredibly effective antioxidants, and ultra-hydrating hyaluronic acid.
Related: Best Hydrating Serums
Urban Skin Rx, Super C Brightening Serum, $58
Urban Skin Rx is known for developing results-driven products that visibly brighten the skin. This particular serum is part of the brand’s luxury collection of professional-strength formulas (initially developed for estheticians to use at their first medical spa) that target hyperpigmentation and dullness. A combination of 20% L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C), ferulic acid, and kojic acid work synergistically to brighten, fade dark spots, and improve the appearance of aging skin.
CeraVe Skin Renewing Vitamin C Serum, $15.69
This popular drugstore favorite features 10% pure L-ascorbic acid to visibly brighten the complexion and even out the skin tone. Three essential ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and vitamin B 5 work together to soothe, improve texture, discoloration, and restore the skin’s protective barrier, making it a suitable formula for all skin types.
LilyAna Naturals Super C Serum, $28
This cult-favorite natural (and vegan) beauty brand formulated the secret sauce for glowing skin with 85% natural — and naturally derived — ingredients. Along with 10% vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, coenzyme Q10, rose flower water, aloe vera juice, and a seaweed complex work together to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and dark spots. Additionally, this serum hydrates, calms inflammation, improves elasticity, and neutralizes free radicals.
BL+ The Serum, $180
This three-in-one super serum harnesses the power of vitamin C, three forms of hyaluronic acid, and a proprietary BL+ Complex to brighten, fade dark spots, moisturize, and protect the skin visibly. Over time, the skin becomes stronger, firmer, and deeply hydrated on a cellular level, resulting in a healthy, glowing complexion. The formula is oil- and fragrance-free, non-comedogenic, and has been dermatologically tested.
La Roche Posay 10% Vitamin C Serum, $39.99
You need not jet off to Paris to reap the benefits of this French pharmacy favorite. This serum is formulated with 10% pure vitamin C and salicylic acid to improve texture and tone while softening the appearance of wrinkles. The addition of neurosensine makes it a desirable pick for those with sensitive skin, eczema, or rosacea, as it soothes skin reactions such as redness and itching.
Glow Skin Beauty Daily Power C+, $130
This potent serum dramatically transforms skin, thanks to a powerful dose (20%) of Vitamin C and peptides. It provides antioxidant support and environmental protection while strengthening, repairing, and brightening the skin — hyperpigmentation included.
Hyper Clear Brightening Clearing Vitamin C Serum, $36
While all vitamin C serums brighten the skin to a certain degree, this formula incorporates skin-lightening kojic acid, fruit enzymes, bearberry, and turmeric to brighten, smooth fine lines, diminish rough texture. It also dramatically clears acne scars and dark spots caused by hyperpigmentation. Expect to see results in as little as four weeks.
Best Vitamin C Serum for Hyperpigmentation: The Bottom Line
Hyperpigmentation is a common, typically harmless condition that surfaces when patches of skin become darker in color than the normal surrounding skin. This darkening occurs when an excess of melanin, the pigment that produces normal skin color, forms concentrated deposits in the skin.
Skin hyperpigmentation can be challenging — but not impossible — to get rid of. The three most common forms of hyperpigmentation include melasma, sunspots, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Popular treatment methods include over-the-counter lightening creams, retinoids, at-home, and in-office peels, laser treatments, and IPL.
However, vitamin C — especially when incorporated in a stabilized serum — can be an easy yet effective arsenal because it interrupts the critical steps of melanogenesis. Vitamin C interacts with copper ions at the tyrosinase-active site and inhibits the action of the enzyme tyrosinase, which decreases melanin formation.
Worn underneath a moisturizer, serums deliver high concentrations of various active ingredients deep into the skin. They are formulated with molecules that can penetrate deeper than creams that only work on the surface level. When treating hyperpigmentation, look for a serum formulated with magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP), the most stable and preferred ascorbyl ester. Other desirable forms include L-ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.
When purchasing a vitamin C serum, other considerations include how it’s packaged so it remains stabilized, your skin type, and the concentration level to ensure its effectiveness. Most experts agree that a level between 10 and 20% is the sweet spot — 8% is too low, whereas going over 20% could cause irritation and isn’t any more effective.
References:
“Research Reveals Sun Damages the Skin of Older Black People,” Open Access Government.
“Vitamin C in Dermatology,” US National Library of Medicine National Institutes of Health.
“Sunscreen FAQs,” American Academy of Dermatology.
“Effect of Vitamin C and Its Effects on Collagen Synthesis,” Pubmed.Gov.
